Foils refurbishment

Here is the portside of the rudder, painted and with wear damage to the trailing edge.

Here is starboard side of the rudder after stripping off four layers of paint with Nitromors Brown paint stripper.  It's very strong stuff and the local supplier told me it was the last of the line due to new EU regulations governing the use of dichloromethane (whatever that is) in DIY products.  Whatever, it worked a treat using a draw scraper after letting the stuff work for half an hour.  After stripping and cleaning, I found this beautiful piece of craftsmanship...why would anyone want to paint it?  There is a long lengthwise crack in from the trailing edge so I decided to use a heat gun to carefully lift away the glass fibre sheathing, strengthen the crack with epoxy and then re-sheath with 81 gsm cloth and West epoxy resin, followed by three coats of varnish, then faired with 800 grit wet and dry sandpaper.

The head of the rudder blade was so ugly with badly done previous repairs that I decided to spray paint it to match the transom.  The stainless steel rudder stock has been broken two or three times in the past and repair welded.  The disc of grp serves as a bearing surface for the pivot bolt (there is another on the other side)   and the piece of green Rawlplug stick keeps the rudder from lifting but also acts as a sacrificial break point should the rudder hit anything.

The original Downunder Yachting Industries of Mornington (Melbourne Australia) logo is still there. 

Here is the centreboard with its wonderful "Spitfire wing" bottom section.  Count the layers of paint.  Like the rudder, the centreboard is a craftsman's work of art and should never have been painted over.

Portside of the centreboard, halfway through stripping the excess wonder it was so stiff to pull out of the centreboard case.

With all the paint and the original glass sheathing removed, time to study a "how not to do it" item.  You can clearly see that a previous numpty attempted to repair the trailing edge using iron nails as support for epoxy resin to fill the missing woodwork.  Very bad plan.  Rust never sleeps and, over time, has stained the wood (cedar, I think) an ugly shade of black.

I'll break away the epoxy, pull out the nails and scarf a new piece of wood, then plane it and sand it to match the trailing edge.

Here is the proper way to repair a damaged trailing edge.  A trapezoid strip of hardwood scarfed in place and simply glued with epoxy before fairing.  It can't possibly fall out, easy to do with a good jigsaw to cut the same shape in the board.  The black smudge is the staining caused by rusty nails. What the hell, the boat has bags of character!

The finished board in place.  Like the rudder, it has been re-sheathed with 81 gsm cloth and epoxy resin, three coats of varnish to provide UV protection, then sanded fair with 800 grit wet and dry sandpaper on a long board, then polished as per Frank Bethwaite's suggestions in High Performance Sailing.

You can also see the slot gasket, glued in place with Tek 7 adhesive-sealer, superior to Bostik or EvoStik glue sniffer's glue.  The black bits are pieces of self stick sail number cloth to keep the fore and aft ends seriously stuck to the hull.

At some point in the past, an owner added a piece of shaped hardwood to the bottom leading edge of the board.  Whoever it was, he did a nice job.

You can count 11 lengths of timber laminated together and then shaped.  I sprayed the black paint on the trailing edge to tell the crew: "Don't step on me!"  The three black smudges are the stained wood caused by using iron nails to effect previous repairs. Their bad plan.

Edwin Brennan, who is the go to craftsman for wooden boat repairs in Dun Laoghaire took one look at the board and said "Jaysus, there was some amount of work went into making that!"

It's a Spitfire wing!

Back to the Intro page, Repairs to the HULL, to the DECK, to the COCKPIT